Train Terror
I didnt want to admit it at the time, but I was starting to get sick in Sarajevo, and I only felt worse by the time I got to Belgrade. I took a bus, and it was painfully cramped. My seat was about two inches too small and my knees were crammed into the seat in front of mine for the long journey. I was thankful for every rest stop, but the sinus cold couldn’t be relieved as simply as a good flexing of the legs. I spent the first day, which was cold and rainy, in the hostel sleeping off as much of my illness as possible. The next day I walked around the city, but was underwhelmed with the sights after being in Sarajevo. There is a nice citadel and fortress on the banks of the Danube with a large park, but otherwise the vaguely boring buildings were less than exciting. This was my first time in an Orthodox Church, and from what I observed, you first bow and kiss the icon in the main isle, and if you desire, stand in front of (sometimes kiss the other icons) as you walk to the right and then left side of the altars. Some of the churches had bar stool like seats around the edges with high arm-rests that were excellent at letting you rest your arms in a penitive stance. I was told the true charm of Belgrade is in its nightlife, but seeing as I was trying to get better I opted to miss out this time.
I was planning to take an overnight train to Athens, and a couple hours before I left a band from the US walked into the hostel. They were a lively bunch about halfway through their Eastern Europe tour. They were a rock n’ roll band, and a fun bunch to spend my last hours in Belgrade with before heading off to the station.
After my enthraling bus ride, I thought I would get some more rest by getting a couchette, and coughed up the extra 10 euro for a bed. Thankfully, I was the only person in my cabin, and I was able to spread out and relax. Unfortunately, I found myself violently ill about an hour into the ride, and didnt really sleep until after I heard a distant minaret’s call to prayer at the Macedonian border. I was really glad I didn’t have any cabinmates, and I think they would all be equally happy for not being there. I managed to feign a form of sleep until arriving in Thessaloniki around one, and switching trains for Athens.
I had an odd altercation with some gypsies in my seat. Until now, when you find someone in your seat, its been more of a ‘just take an open seat and dont worry about it’ approach. The three gypsies in what should’ve been my foursome of seats was loud and they made some ludelooking faces at me even though I had just sat a couple seats away, as I was not really in the mood to force my hand. At the first stop, I was in a ladies seat, and after explaining they were in my seat, she looked at them and started yelling something in Greek. She wasn’t happy, and it seemed like it might’ve been the last straw. The threesome were very rude, and hesitant to get up. Then another old man stood up and started yelling at them as well. When they finally got up and sauntered off with bitter faces, the cabin seemed to depressurize and the old man told me they were swearing and saying inappropriate things the whole ride, so when they saw they were also not supposed to be sitting there, it was too much. I’ll see if my experiences in Athens will align with my first impressions of the Greek people who sofar aren’t afraid to say what’s on their mind.
