No American has been able to get a visa for India from the Indian Consulate in Istanbul for years. Unfortunately, I wasn’t aware of this and fell into a three day trap of being their pawn in a childish bickering match.
The theory of getting a visa from a consulate seems straightforward, the reality is a whole other story. As I am not as well connected as other people, nor willing to post sums of money to be vouched for in order to get into Iran, I decided it would be best to fly to India. Even if I made it into Iran, I would be flying over Pakistan into India for safety reasons. I arrived in Istanbul and thought I would have more flexibility in traveling if I got my visa from here, where I would be flying from versus the capital, Ankara. You might be asking why I didn’t get this before-hand (a simple one day turn around process requiring less information). The answer is it must be used within 90 days of issue for a 6-month visa, and I wouldn’t be in India until approximately 120 days after issue. I figured I could use embassies and consulates to get visas.
So, as I had mentioned in my last post Brad and I looked for the Indian consulate, and were pretty much given a run-around on its whereabouts. We were able to call and make sure I had all the necessary forms. Included in those was a ‘note verbal’ from my consulate, verifying my citizenship and giving me permission to travel. Pleased with finding this out beforehand I found directions to the American Consulate and planned to go early the next morning.
I arrived at the American Consulate, which is 1) on the outskirts of town 2) a massive complex on a hill 3) attacked in a gunfight last August.
Aware of all this, I politely stood in line with the other people outside of the building waiting to approach the security desk. When they found out I was an American Citizen I was whisked to the front of the line, flew through security, and was ushered up to the second floor. The room before me was packed full of people. I was prepared for this, and a long wait. Again to my surprise, they had a separate line for American Citizens, and I was ushered into a different room and given the next number to be called. I told them what I needed from them for my Indian visa, and they immediately went to work getting the appropriate papers. I received my papers along with a letter to hand to the consulate, paid my 30 USD consular fee, and happily walked out the door. Unfortunately, the consulate is so far away, I kenw the bus couldnt get me back in time to put my application in at the Indian consulate (applications are only accepted until 1130), which I was ok with as the bus ride was a great way to see the freezing cold Bosphorous. There wasn’t much else I could do during this time, so I waited until the following morning to go to the Indian Consulate, and played tourist.
I arrived to the area where the consulate should be early, as I still didnt know exactly where it was located. I thought I had the right building, and went up to the doorman who told me I was in the wrong place, it wasnt here, and looked at me like I was mad. Thankfully, a patron of the building overheard us and told him he was wrong, that it was in the building but on the other side. (Its not a big building, he was just that dense.) Red-faced, the guard apologized and I walked around to the other entrance to find the usual security set-up. I arrived upstairs, waitied my turn and happily handed in my application. After an brief pause of half-heartedly looking through my papers, she looked at me like I was an idiot and told me I had the wrong papers.
A little annoyed, but still knowing that killing with kindness is the best way to work these things out, I listened as she explained to me the US Consulate in Istanbul doesnt give them the right paperwork. Every other consulate is able to produce a one-line memo which states the following: “ [first name] [last name] is a citizen of [country of citizenship], and should be allowed for consideration of a visa.” That’s all they needed. Frivolous, simple, and annoying. As I mentioned earlier they also handed me a long winded letter, at the heart of which is the following excerpt:
…The possesion of a United States passport by the individual named therein is proof of that person’s citizenship and of the fact that United States Government has no objection to the travel of that citizen outside of the United States. Neither this Embassy nor Consulate in Adana or Consulate General in Istanbul or any other office of the United States Government will provide additional documentation or statements to private American Citizens stating that the United States Government has no objection to travel…1995
I kindly pointed this section out to her, and asked for them to consider it, as I understood this was as much as they could give me. She politely handed it to the Vice Consular who about ten minutes later told me the following: “You should apply for your visa in another country, as it is impossible for you to get one here.” He stated a lack of information infrastructure as not being able to do without such a letter. A bit frustrated with the situation, I realized there was nothing more I could do here. My only hope was to return to the US Consulate and attempt to get this ‘note verbal.’
I knew this would be a most frivolous trip, but as most of you know I exude some characteristics that might be categorized as stubborn. The bus ride almost 2/3 of the way up the Bosphorous was again enjoyable as I watched the passing mansions of yester-years and mighty ships parting the water. I again ascended the hill to the mighty complex, and decided I would play dumb, and again try to get this ‘note verbal.’ This time the lady who helped me immediately told me what I already knew. The only piece of paper they could give me would not work, and I shouldn’t waste the money. After making sure I understood her, I produced for her that exact sheet. Frustrated I didn’t have her to help me the first time, and trying to understand our foreign policy better, I asked her why exactly they couldnt provide this superfulous piece of paper. “We don’t have the power to do that.” she replied. I responded, “So you are saying the US Consulate, that the United States of America’s Consulate, is the only consulate in Istanbul who doesn’t have the power to write this one sentence.” Politely, she said she couldn’t account for other consulates, but they didn’t have the power.
Stubborningly, and trying to make a self-satisfying point, which I’m sure more enraged Americans have mentioend since 1995, I asked her if this was serving citizens of the United States abroad, and if there was a supervisor I could talk to about the matter. Of course, no one was available for comment. I felt at home. I felt at home in a way I so dislike. I’ve seen much worse in places like Italy. It was at this point I realized the difference. In a place like Italy where you can’t see past the density of red tape, people accept it for what it is and with patience wait for it to take its course. In America we are emboldened by our freedoms. True, it is our right to speak up, it is our right to scream in the face of powerless employees over policy made by elected officials, because we inherently believe we can change the world one vessel-popping fight at a time. Too many times on this trip I have seen Americans lose their temper faster than a mad Irish woman, over the smallest detail, and I realize with our instilled freedom to talk and rant we sometimes forget to choose our battles wisely. In a blatantly stereotypical comment, Americans tend to fight with their mouth open and eyes and ears shut. Take the truth of it as it is, but its no way to see the world.
As for this battle, it scared me a bit. I felt powerless, like a mignon in corporate America, dancing to the tune of those above me; I thought I had certain freedoms, rights, power. i didn’t. I could see the stances of each consulate. I could see a simple solution; grow up. I decided it didn’t really matter. Both consulates at some point in the process were dishonest, and politics aside there is no reason for deceitful behavior. The only reality is this is a fairly cut and dry example of politics, and a great example of its inefficiencies. Inefficiencies annoy me (as it should most engineers.)
Dear American travelers, head my warning. Get a visa ahead of time, or just go to Ankara.
(UPDATE: I applied for my visa at the Embassy in Ankara. They require a bank statement to verify address and funds to spend, and flight details. They said my visa would be ready in 4 business days. I dropped off the form with necessary attachments, and picked up my visa 4 days later. I had no problem traveling around Turkey with a copy of my passport and the receipt during that time.)
